KRKA NATIONAL PARK

Our energetic plans are soon thwarted as we awake to the sound of rain. It gets steadily heavier with thunder and lightening and we are confined to barracks: reading on our bed. By midday it does seem to be clearing so we take an optimistic walk around Skradin and convince ourselves that the clouds are thinning. We buy provisions and then borrow two mountain bikes from Zlatko, the owner of our guesthouse. We set off up the Krka River. It is European Mobility Week so approaching the National Park on foot or by bike entitles us to a reduced entry fee of 62 kuna instead of 110. It feels strange cycling with thick tyres although we are thankful for them as the terrain becomes rougher. Simon enjoys the added suspension, heading for the uneven surfaces, thick gravel and puddles. No worry about punctures today. Our arrival at the waterfalls is pretty grim and it is raining again. However, eventually the sun shines through the clouds and our photographs improve. The Skradinski Buk waterfall is really impressive. There is water cascading in all directions and the water level is so high that no swimming is allowed (not that we were very tempted!) We have a lovely walk along boardwalks with spectacular views on all sides and then enjoy our cycle back to Skradin - only 4km each way, but it feels enough for today. We will have to visit Roski Slap waterfall higher up the river another time. We eat at Bonaca Restaurant - a family run business where they catch all their own fish. We have fried small fish (like whitebait), river prawns and grey mullet and pandora fish from the local lake. Local red wine R6 and Zizule: small fruit that look like olives but taste like apple, sometimes known as red dates, a speciality of this area at this time of year.