Tuesday 23 September - TROGIR TO BRISTOL and home

We wake to sunshine but a cooler wind. Breakfast enjoying our spectacular view before a coffee in the sunshine on the sea front of Trogir. We pedal our way to the airport (about 4 miles) and try to find a quiet spot to dismantle and pack the bikes. We manage to get in the way in the Assisted Travellers area and feel rather unpopular. Practice has made perfect and we get the bikes packed up in record time and survive the scrutiny of the disapproving security officer. Bike free we read books outside in the sunshine before boarding our Jet Airways flight which actually leaves early. A cramped flight with a dreadful crying child in the seat next to us! Bikes and baggage arrive without hassle and our car is waiting for us. Bikes on roof, our journey back from Bristol is straightforward and we are relieved we are not having to drive back from Gatwick. The end of a wonderful holiday.

PRIMOSTEN TO TROGIR (30 miles) Breakfast with Dolphins

We wake to the beautiful sea view from our balcony and enjoy our inclusive breakfast on the terrace above the pool. We are excited to see 3 or 4 dolphins not too far away in the bay. We set off on the main coast road and I don my helmet feeling rather anxious. In fact the road is not busy and hugs the coast for some time with spectacular views. Simon then navigates us off the main road on a detour to Rogoznica where we find a delightful spot with shingle beach and concrete swimming steps and we swim in the crystal clear water. We manage to wile away an hour or so reading before hitting the road again. The next detour is not so successful and involves a lot of uphill cycling (and even worse, steep downhills) and once again, my navigator claims that the map bears no resemblance to the terrain so we have no idea where we are! Anyway, we find some sea to swim in and a picnic spot so morale is maintained. We manage to get back to the coast road and cruise into Trogir which really does feel a bit like coming home. We get back to Guesthouse Bakica and find ourselves not in our original room as we had expected but in an amazing apartment with a terrace overlooking Trogir. This view alone must be worth a fortune. Rain is forecast but infact we sit enjoying a glass of white wine in the sunshine crossing our fingers. We eat at Konoba TRS again. I have a delicious Octopus Carpaccio and Simon enjoys more clams. Fresh fish to follow and a bottle of Babic from Primosten. Our last evening - what an amazing adventure we have had. We get back to our apartment just in time to watch the impressive thunderstorm that had been predicted: spectacular lightening forks lighting up Trogir.

SKRADIN TO PRIMOSTEN : 30 MILES

We head off just after 9:00 from Skradin, buying cheese pastries and zizule and figs from the local fruit stall. The road goes up and up but at a gentle gradient, with good views of Skradin below. We join the main road and can soon see that it disappears into a tunnel after a little while so we head off on the alternative route to Sibenik. We stop for a reviving coffee and then find the coast road and head off through beautiful scenery. It's very humid so we are both sweating a lot. We find an idyllic place for a naked dip in very clear water. We get to Primosten just after 1 pm and have lunch on our balcony overlooking the sea, and then go done to the little beach for a couple of hours. We later cycle off to Primosten and wander around. We have a cocktail ( well C does, I have a smoothly!) for the price of a coffee as the waitr misunderstands Americano, and then we have supper at a great place in the centre. Vongole clams as a starter for C, and salted and marinaded anchovies for me, then an amazing Dalmatian fish stew on a big platter. A rather dark cycle home - just as well we brought the bike lights!

KRKA NATIONAL PARK

Our energetic plans are soon thwarted as we awake to the sound of rain. It gets steadily heavier with thunder and lightening and we are confined to barracks: reading on our bed. By midday it does seem to be clearing so we take an optimistic walk around Skradin and convince ourselves that the clouds are thinning. We buy provisions and then borrow two mountain bikes from Zlatko, the owner of our guesthouse. We set off up the Krka River. It is European Mobility Week so approaching the National Park on foot or by bike entitles us to a reduced entry fee of 62 kuna instead of 110. It feels strange cycling with thick tyres although we are thankful for them as the terrain becomes rougher. Simon enjoys the added suspension, heading for the uneven surfaces, thick gravel and puddles. No worry about punctures today. Our arrival at the waterfalls is pretty grim and it is raining again. However, eventually the sun shines through the clouds and our photographs improve. The Skradinski Buk waterfall is really impressive. There is water cascading in all directions and the water level is so high that no swimming is allowed (not that we were very tempted!) We have a lovely walk along boardwalks with spectacular views on all sides and then enjoy our cycle back to Skradin - only 4km each way, but it feels enough for today. We will have to visit Roski Slap waterfall higher up the river another time. We eat at Bonaca Restaurant - a family run business where they catch all their own fish. We have fried small fish (like whitebait), river prawns and grey mullet and pandora fish from the local lake. Local red wine R6 and Zizule: small fruit that look like olives but taste like apple, sometimes known as red dates, a speciality of this area at this time of year.

PAKOSTANE TO SKRADIN : 40 MILES

After breakfast on the terrace we head off and climb out of Pakostane. We cross the main road and pass next to the large lake, seeing a few herons on the way. We are soon in rural Croatia, away from the coast, and the first time we have been out of sight of the islands. We now pass through little villages, where everyone seems to keep chickens and produce their own fruit and veg. The bikes seem very heavy and slow today. We get rather lost and I ask for directions with the map, hoping for some helpful sign language, instead I get very detailed explanations in Croatian which leave us none the wiser. We eventually retrace our steps and get on the right road. After a reviving coffee stop we make better progress, though the map seems to bear no relationship to the actual road layout. Our first roadside picnic before descending into Skradin. We find our accommodation and meet Zlatko the owner. He tells us that a lot of the maps of Croatia are inaccurate. He suggests that we borrow some of the mountain bikes that he hires out to get to the first waterfall tomorrow and then use our bikes to cycle on the roads to see others. That sounds fine, though we were probably hoping for a day off tomorrow! He gives us some good advice about fish restaurants for tonight...and we book a table at Zlatne Skoljke - not an easy name to remember! We have to wear bibs and start with a mixture of mussels, Noah's Ark shells and warty Venus clams! and then a local fish which tastes like sea bass, washed down with some Chardonnay. The Noah's Ark clams are weird, and need a special way to open them, taking off a little lid which then enables them to be opened, I have to ask how to do this! They are like a chewy mussel. Plenty of garlic oil so our breath will be awesome tomorrow!

ZADAR TO PAKOSTANE - 2 Ferries (28 miles)

We wake early with the bells as usual and visit the local market buying nectarines and fresh figs for our lunch. We tour the fish market and wonder at the variety on display - some not so appetising. We catch the 9.30 Ferry to Preko on Uglian and begin to retrace our steps homeward. We are somewhat dismayed to meet another couple of cycle tourers going in our direction: formally clad in yellow high visibility jackets, helmets and back lights (German we assume!) and I become obsessed by trying to avoid them. An easy ride back across the bridge that we have now cycled over twice and sailed under once. Indeed as we arrive we see the Ferry Annamarija taking passengers to Dugi Otok. Sadly not us this time. Simon leads us off the main road into some pretty seaside villages on Pasman and he takes a dip. We arrive in Tkon in time for a refreshing beer before the 1.20 ferry over to Biograd na Moru: looking much more attractive in the sunshine compared to the thunderstorms that greeted us on our arrival last week. We even see a dolphin jumping the waves. Along the coast for another 4 miles or so to Pakostane which we are pleasantly surprised (despite the name) to find is a small and attractive seaside town. Our apartment Lena is immaculate and spacious and owned by a Belgian lady. We cycle to the nearby beach for a rest and a swim in the clear waters. White wine and nibbles on the terrace before supper. We cycle into the centre and find it buzzing. Everyone is German and they all assume we are too. We are rather overlooked and ignored at our restaurant when they discover we are English but nevertheless we have very tasty Sea Bass cooked on an open wood oven and the bill is one of the lowest yet.

ZADAR

We are right in the heart of the old city so can wander around before most of the other tourists get here. We go to St Donat's church and then sit by the sea organ and listen to its mesmerising sounds.Even though the sea is calm this morning it makes strange musical sounds. The large and hideous cruise ship has now left. We cycle off to a nearby beach and watch the Anamaria ferry leave for Sali, the Jadrolinjia ferry arrive from Ancona, Italy, and the local boats come and go to Preko. It's all go. The day slips effortlessly by. We cycle around the other part of Zadar, over the pedestrian bridge and past the old Makarska factory, which used to make the maraschino liquor from Dalmatian cherries and which is sold locally. For supper we've booked the other place recommended yesterday by Ana - a place called Bruschetta. At dusk we go to the Greeting to the Sun installation by the sea organ, where everyone gathers to watch the sunset and listen to the whale like sounds. We then try a Marschino in a little side street bar, very pleasant, and then have our meal. The restaurant is heaving which must be a good sign. I have Warty Venus Shells ( see picture) - yummy, and sea bass with polenta. Bruschetta and John Dory with Ravioli for C. We sit next to and chat to a New Zealand couple who order 2 large lobsters, and everyone gasps with amazement as they are produced. ( We think they too will gasp when they get the bill!)